Congratulations to Jerry and Shauna Ethridge on being selected as the December 2011 Yard of the Month. The Ethridges live at 26043 Jodie Lynn Circle. Your yard looks great -- thanks for your hard work!
Thursday, December 22, 2011
December 2011 Yard of the Month
Congratulations to Jerry and Shauna Ethridge on being selected as the December 2011 Yard of the Month. The Ethridges live at 26043 Jodie Lynn Circle. Your yard looks great -- thanks for your hard work!
Saturday, December 10, 2011
December General Meeting
Our December meeting will be this Monday, Dec. 12 - 7 PM at the CCL Community Center [by the swimming pool]. Spouses/Guests are welcome - we will have our party as well. Our speaker is Sherri Harrah from Plants For All Seasons Nursery, speaking on "Holiday Plants"
We will be collecting items for our Charity Donation - please bring items for CAM. We look forward to seeing you Monday!
We will be collecting items for our Charity Donation - please bring items for CAM. We look forward to seeing you Monday!
Monday, November 21, 2011
November Yard of the Month
Congratulations to Mr. and Mrs Stewart on being selected the November, 2011 Yard of the Month. 
The Stewarts live at 11906 Cypress Creek Lakes Drive. Your yard is awesome! Thanks for your hard work!
The Stewarts live at 11906 Cypress Creek Lakes Drive. Your yard is awesome! Thanks for your hard work!
Sunday, November 20, 2011
November meeting
The November general meeting was held November 14, 2011. Our speaker was John Ferguson from Nature's Way speaking on Mulches & Compost - the 2nd in his series on soil.John told us to "follow natures lead" - The best time is Fall. As the leaves fall, they keep the soil moist and warm, which indicates to us that it is time for us to mulch.
Thanks John, for another interesting talk.
Friday, November 11, 2011
November General Meeting this Monday!
The November CCL Garden Club Meeting will be this Monday, November 14th at the Community Center (near the pool)from 7:00 - 9:00pm. Our Speaker is John Ferguson of Nature's Way with the 2nd in his series on soil: "Mulches & Compost". We look forward to seeing you Monday!
Monday, November 7, 2011
Texas Gardeners Stay Busy Through Fall
This article was reprinted from Dave's Garden website (www.davesgarden.com) with permission. Unfortunately, the pictures would not come thru, so please visit http://davesgarden.com to see them.
By Tamara Galbraith (TexasTam)
November 4, 2011
Autumn is finally upon us here in Texas...tree leaves are turning a soft golden color, the nights are getting cooler and finally, finally, we have logged some rain (at least around Dallas.) After the brutal, dry summer experienced across the entire state, fall couldn’t come too soon. Gardeners can now enjoy mild temperatures while tending to a number of chores.
Sadly, one of those chores may include the replacing of plants that were torched by the extended triple digits. The good news is that this is a great time for new planting, especially perennials and shrubs. The temperatures and rainfall allow roots to get a head start on growth before plants go dormant for the winter, which makes for stronger, healthier plants in the spring.
Heuchera, hosta, coneflower, penstemon, Shasta daisy and dianthus are just a few of the perennials that can be planted now. If you're looking to put in more herbaceous plants such as salvia, Russian sage, lavender or agastache, be sure to provide sharp drainage by amending the surrounding soil with gravel or expanded shale. Although they need an adequate amount of water to get established, many woody-stemmed plants don't like a lot of moisture and can perish if they stay too wet over the winter.
However, most shrubs absolutely love being planted in the fall. Their root systems are generally larger and deeper than regular landscape plants so they really benefit from the extra moisture and root development time that autumn provides. Just be sure to dig a deep enough hole to accommodate the entire root ball, and water well. Texas Sage (Leucophyllum frutescens), American Beautyberry (Callicarpa americana - shown at left) and Red Yucca (Hesperaloe parviflora) are three tough and beautiful native shrubs that should be included in every Texas landscape.
In the southern U.S., planting wildflower seeds is recommended through December. Choose a site that gets full sun and has good drainage. Remove any existing vegetation and lightly cultivate the soil to a depth of one inch. Scatter half of the seeds over the area in one direction then spread the other half in the opposite direction. Walk across the area several times to press the seeds into the soil, and water thoroughly. Many of the seeds will germinate and remain in a small seedling state through the winter.
Thanksgiving weekend is my favorite time for planting spring-flowering bulbs, and it's a good way to work off the extra helpings of stuffing and mashed potatoes I inevitably indulge in. As most experienced Texas gardeners know, Dutch-variety tulips rarely naturalize in the warmer parts of the state, as the bulbs don't get the adequate chilling time needed to get through their second year in the ground. There are two options: plant new Dutch tulips each year or plant a type of tulip that does come back. Sometimes known as "species" tulips, these Mediterranean varieties are shorter and tougher than their Dutch cousins. Popular species tulips include Tulipa clusiana ‘Cynthia' or ‘Lady Jane'. Most daffodils perform well across the state and do tend to return each year. I am also very partial to an unusual, stunning ornamental onion, Allium schubertii (pictured at right) which seems to be hit or miss on coming back each year, depending on how tough the weather is.
As for non-planting-related fall chores, there are several that will fill your time. Clean, stack and store empty plant pots. Clean, lubricate and store your shovels and other tools. Some gardeners prefer to empty and store their rain barrels to prevent freezing and cracking, although I've never had a problem with this here in Dallas, despite an awfully cold winter last year. Set up hoops over beds of tender plants and veggies so when a freeze comes, all you have to do is secure some frost cloth over the area.
Speaking of veggies...one of the most common questions I hear this time of year is what to do with green tomatoes still on the plant when a frost approaches. If you cover the plant, and the predicted freeze is expected to be short-lived and/or somewhat minor, your tomatoes will probably be fine. Your best bet is to pick all the fruit off the plant before the freeze and bring them inside. Believe it or not, some will ripen. Some won't, but there are plenty of great things you can still do with green tomatoes. If left unprotected, other warm-season veggies such as peppers and eggplant will be toast. On the flipside, cabbage and broccoli are incredibly cold-hardy and even like a bit of frost.
In general, you want to have all of your fall planting chores done about a month before your projected first frost date. Texas, being as big as it is, spans eight different Hardiness Zones, ranging from 6a in the northwestern tip of the Panhandle to the steamy 9b southernmost portion near the Mexico border. While Amarillo will generally get a freeze before the end of October (and they have, in fact, recently received several inches of snow), Harlingen rarely sees temperatures below 50°. So...plan accordingly.
On a related note, here's a bit of good gardening news: the Farmer's Almanac is predicting a very mild, very wet winter of 2011-12 for Central and Eastern Texas, with Dallas seeing its first visit from Jack Frost a little later than the usual November 15 date, and Houston residents getting their noses nipped on or about December 20. For the western third of the state, it appears the extreme drought could continue, unfortunately.
By Tamara Galbraith (TexasTam)
November 4, 2011
Autumn is finally upon us here in Texas...tree leaves are turning a soft golden color, the nights are getting cooler and finally, finally, we have logged some rain (at least around Dallas.) After the brutal, dry summer experienced across the entire state, fall couldn’t come too soon. Gardeners can now enjoy mild temperatures while tending to a number of chores.
Sadly, one of those chores may include the replacing of plants that were torched by the extended triple digits. The good news is that this is a great time for new planting, especially perennials and shrubs. The temperatures and rainfall allow roots to get a head start on growth before plants go dormant for the winter, which makes for stronger, healthier plants in the spring.
Heuchera, hosta, coneflower, penstemon, Shasta daisy and dianthus are just a few of the perennials that can be planted now. If you're looking to put in more herbaceous plants such as salvia, Russian sage, lavender or agastache, be sure to provide sharp drainage by amending the surrounding soil with gravel or expanded shale. Although they need an adequate amount of water to get established, many woody-stemmed plants don't like a lot of moisture and can perish if they stay too wet over the winter.
However, most shrubs absolutely love being planted in the fall. Their root systems are generally larger and deeper than regular landscape plants so they really benefit from the extra moisture and root development time that autumn provides. Just be sure to dig a deep enough hole to accommodate the entire root ball, and water well. Texas Sage (Leucophyllum frutescens), American Beautyberry (Callicarpa americana - shown at left) and Red Yucca (Hesperaloe parviflora) are three tough and beautiful native shrubs that should be included in every Texas landscape.
In the southern U.S., planting wildflower seeds is recommended through December. Choose a site that gets full sun and has good drainage. Remove any existing vegetation and lightly cultivate the soil to a depth of one inch. Scatter half of the seeds over the area in one direction then spread the other half in the opposite direction. Walk across the area several times to press the seeds into the soil, and water thoroughly. Many of the seeds will germinate and remain in a small seedling state through the winter.
Thanksgiving weekend is my favorite time for planting spring-flowering bulbs, and it's a good way to work off the extra helpings of stuffing and mashed potatoes I inevitably indulge in. As most experienced Texas gardeners know, Dutch-variety tulips rarely naturalize in the warmer parts of the state, as the bulbs don't get the adequate chilling time needed to get through their second year in the ground. There are two options: plant new Dutch tulips each year or plant a type of tulip that does come back. Sometimes known as "species" tulips, these Mediterranean varieties are shorter and tougher than their Dutch cousins. Popular species tulips include Tulipa clusiana ‘Cynthia' or ‘Lady Jane'. Most daffodils perform well across the state and do tend to return each year. I am also very partial to an unusual, stunning ornamental onion, Allium schubertii (pictured at right) which seems to be hit or miss on coming back each year, depending on how tough the weather is.
As for non-planting-related fall chores, there are several that will fill your time. Clean, stack and store empty plant pots. Clean, lubricate and store your shovels and other tools. Some gardeners prefer to empty and store their rain barrels to prevent freezing and cracking, although I've never had a problem with this here in Dallas, despite an awfully cold winter last year. Set up hoops over beds of tender plants and veggies so when a freeze comes, all you have to do is secure some frost cloth over the area.
Speaking of veggies...one of the most common questions I hear this time of year is what to do with green tomatoes still on the plant when a frost approaches. If you cover the plant, and the predicted freeze is expected to be short-lived and/or somewhat minor, your tomatoes will probably be fine. Your best bet is to pick all the fruit off the plant before the freeze and bring them inside. Believe it or not, some will ripen. Some won't, but there are plenty of great things you can still do with green tomatoes. If left unprotected, other warm-season veggies such as peppers and eggplant will be toast. On the flipside, cabbage and broccoli are incredibly cold-hardy and even like a bit of frost.
In general, you want to have all of your fall planting chores done about a month before your projected first frost date. Texas, being as big as it is, spans eight different Hardiness Zones, ranging from 6a in the northwestern tip of the Panhandle to the steamy 9b southernmost portion near the Mexico border. While Amarillo will generally get a freeze before the end of October (and they have, in fact, recently received several inches of snow), Harlingen rarely sees temperatures below 50°. So...plan accordingly.
On a related note, here's a bit of good gardening news: the Farmer's Almanac is predicting a very mild, very wet winter of 2011-12 for Central and Eastern Texas, with Dallas seeing its first visit from Jack Frost a little later than the usual November 15 date, and Houston residents getting their noses nipped on or about December 20. For the western third of the state, it appears the extreme drought could continue, unfortunately.
Sunday, October 23, 2011
The Trimming of the Butterfly Garden
On Saturday October 15th, Helen Lombardo, Debbie Haluch, Dave Mausolf and Dale Smothers took on the task of trimming up the Butterfly Garden. The vincas, Helen Lombardo and Debbie planted in June 2011 did extremely well despite our summer drought. They were so abundant that the engraved brick walkway was hidden. Helen, with over 40 years in the plant nursery business, has no worries with pulling up and trimming plants. Debbie, it seems, is more of a rescue plant person even when they don't need it. There are a few begonias and vincas in the garden that Helen let me "save". Garden Club member Dave Mausolf and Dale Smothers followed Helen's guidance and we filled five contractor bags with our lush trimmings.
The garden should be in full bloom again in 4-6 weeks.
Saturday, October 15, 2011
October 2011 General Meeting
Our October General Meeting was held October 10th at the Community Center. Our speaker was Carol Fraser with the Bear Creek Extension Service, and she spoke on “Help with Trees” Did you know that a tree was planted at the same time as the Declaration of Independence was signed, it is called the Liberty Elm? She also told us that trees should be watered at the "drip" line of the branches, as this is the natural watering system for the tree, not at the trunk of the tree. She also said that 5:am to sunrise is the best time to water. Remember not to leave any broken branches on your trees! Be sure to trim them, however, in a drought, only trim when absolutely necessary.
Friday, October 7, 2011
October General Meeting
Our next Garden Club meeting will be this Monday, October 10 from 7-9 at the Community Center (by the swimming pool). Our speaker will be Carol Fraser from Bear Creek Extension Service who will speak on "Help with Trees".
Remember to bring your Pathway Brick Order forms!!! (if you need a form they are available on the CCL website, or you can contact any Garden Club member) We will take orders until November!!
We look forward to seeing you there!
Remember to bring your Pathway Brick Order forms!!! (if you need a form they are available on the CCL website, or you can contact any Garden Club member) We will take orders until November!!
We look forward to seeing you there!
Wednesday, September 21, 2011
Pathway Bricks!!!
It's that time!! The CCLGC is taking orders for Pathway Bricks. These bricks will be installed at the Butterfly Garden (near the splash pad) as they were last year. Go check them out!! Leave your Legacy! Purchase a Pathway Brick and have it inscribed with anything you would like -- your childrens names, your family name, a rememberance of someone special, a favorite saying/quote.
The bricks are 4x8 and are $50.00 each.
We will be taking orders until November 15th. The order form can be found on the CCL web site, you can contact the garden club at cclgc1@gmail.com, or Sandra Gilbert at 832-220-6496.
Tuesday, September 20, 2011
September 2011 Yard of the Month
Congratulations to Tony and Sherian Hardin on being selected as the September 2011 Yard of the Month. The Hardins live at 26610 Ridgefield Park Lane. This is the second time that they have been selected. Thanks for your hard work!!
Sunday, September 18, 2011
September 12, 2011 General Meeting
The first meeting of the 2011-2012 CCLGC was held Monday, September 12th at the Community Center. Our speaker was Carol Bright of Bright Landscaping Design, Inc. She spoke on "Possibilities in the Landscape". Carol reminded us that a little can go a long way -- you don't need to do the entire yard at one time, a little at a time always works,and you can work slowly to get exactly what you want -- maybe a water feature, a pathway, a pergola or other items. Carol told us that we need to remember that the plants exposure to the sun and the amount of watering are extremely important factors to a plants performance -- Be aware of where you plant and how much sun gets to those plants.
Some of the plants that they have seen that are holding up in the extreme heat and drought are:
Aspanagus Fern, Foxtail Fern, Katie Ruellia, Cora Vinca, Hamellias, Esperanza, Pomegranites, Giant Liriope, Potato Vine, Confederate Jasmine, Yucca, Angelonia, Lantana, Cuban Gold Duranta, Oleander, Palms, Hollies, Vitex, Texas Purple Sage, Fountain Grasses, Live Oaks, Holly Trees, Magnolias, Evergreen Wisteria, Plumbago.
These have done up until August: Crapes, Roses, White Wing Caladiums and Dwarf Penta.
Problematic: Monkey Grass, Mini Monkey Grass, Gingers, Encore Azaleas.
Thursday, September 8, 2011
1st Meeting of the 2011-2012 GC Year!
CYPRESS CREEK LAKES GARDEN CLUB MEETING
The first meeting for the 2011-2012 year will be held this Monday, September 12th at 7:00pm at the New Community Center (by the pool). Our Speaker is Carol Bright of Bright Landscape Design.
Dues will remain the same this year: $30 single/$50 family [Membership Application on the CCL website or you can get one at the meeting].Bring a friend or neighbor to join the Club!!!
Our theme is Learning and Growing Together
The first meeting for the 2011-2012 year will be held this Monday, September 12th at 7:00pm at the New Community Center (by the pool). Our Speaker is Carol Bright of Bright Landscape Design.
Dues will remain the same this year: $30 single/$50 family [Membership Application on the CCL website or you can get one at the meeting].Bring a friend or neighbor to join the Club!!!
Our theme is Learning and Growing Together
Sunday, August 14, 2011
2011-2011 Planning Meeting
The planning meeting for the 2011-2011 CCLGC year was held Monday August 8th. Sandra Gilbert, Marcia Mausolf, Kathy Booth, Mike Owens, Jennifer Buchert, Helen Lombardo, Debbie Haluch and Patti Foucha attended. It is going to be a great year --there were many great ideas presented. It was also confirmed that all of our meetings will be held at the new CCL community center. We look forward to seeing everyone on September 12th for our first meeting of the GC year!!
Friday, July 15, 2011
Drought and Drought Stress on South Texas Landscape Plants
Drought and Drought Stress on South Texas Landscape Plants
By: David Rodriguez
In nature, water is usually the most limiting factor for plant growth. This is also the case in home or commercial landscapes. If plants do not receive adequate rainfall or irrigation, the resulting drought stress can reduce growth more than all other environmental stresses combined.
Drought can be defined as the absence of rainfall or supplemental irrigation for a period of time sufficient to deplete soil moisture and injure plants. Drought stress results when water loss from the plant exceeds the ability of the plant's roots to absorb water and when the plant's water content is reduced enough to interfere with normal plant processes. In South Texas, plants may frequently encounter drought stress. Rainfall is very seasonal and periodic drought occurs. During drought, local governments may place restrictions on landscape irrigation in order to conserve water, and landscape plants may become subject to drought stress. The use of drought tolerant plants in the landscape can reduce the likelihood of plant injury due to drought stress.
How Does Drought Stress Affect Plants?
A plant responds to a lack of water by halting growth and reducing photosynthesis and other plant processes in order to reduce water use. As water loss progresses, leaves of some species may appear to change color -- usually to blue-green. Foliage begins to wilt and, if the plant is not irrigated, leaves will fall off and the plant will eventually die.
How Long Before Drought Stress Develops?
The time required for drought injury to occur depends on the water-holding capacity of the soil, environmental conditions, stage of plant growth, and plant species. Plants growing in sandy soils with low water-holding capacity are more susceptible to drought stress than plants growing in clay soils. A limited root system will accelerate the rate at which drought stress develops. A root system may be limited by the presence of competing root systems, by site conditions such as compacted soils, or by container size (if growing in a container). A plant with a large mass of leaves in relation to the root system is prone to drought stress because the leaves may lose water faster than the roots can supply it. Newly installed plants and poorly established plants may be especially susceptible to drought stress because of the limited root system or the large mass of stems and leaves in comparison to roots. Always look at a container plants root system before planting. Loosening or cutting the root system at initial planting stage will aide in establishment.
How Does Environment Affect Drought Stress?
Aside from the moisture content of the soil, environmental conditions of high light intensity, high temperature, low relative humidity and high wind speed will significantly increase plant water loss. The prior environment of a plant also can influence the development of drought stress. A plant that has been drought stressed previously and has recovered may become more drought resistant. Also, a plant that was well-watered prior to drought will usually survive drought better than a continuously drought-stressed plant.
What Changes Can Be Made to Reduce Effects of Drought in the Landscape?
The landscape environment can be modified to reduce or prevent drought stress by irrigation, mulching, and providing shade. Reducing the overall water requirements of the landscape is best achieved by initially designing the landscapes for water conservation, including efficient irrigation systems, proper watering and the use of drought tolerant plants where appropriate.
What are the Characteristics of Drought Tolerant Plants?
Some species have an inherent tolerance of drought because they have evolved in arid areas, regions with frequent drought, or regions with soils of low water-holding capacity. Some species have anatomical or physiological characteristics that allow them to withstand drought or to acclimate to drought. All plants have a waxy coating on their leaves called "cuticle," but some species have developed exceptionally thick cuticles that reduce the amount of water lost by evaporation from the leaf surface. Leaf hairs, which reduce air movement at the leaf surface, are another means of reducing evaporation from the leaf. Since the amount of surface area exposed to the atmosphere affects evaporation, leaf size and thickness are other adaptations, with thicker leaves and smaller leaves being more resistant to water loss. Some species have evolved large surface root systems to quickly absorb rainfall, while other species grow deep root systems to tap deep water tables. Some plants avoid drought by dropping their leaves during droughts and quickly regrowing new leaves when environmental conditions improve.
Lists of Drought Tolerant Plants
The plants listed tolerate drought stress better than most landscape plants. Although these plants are considered drought tolerant, new plantings will require regular irrigation for 6 weeks to 6 months or more before they become established well enough to be effectively drought tolerant. Trees larger than two inches caliper will take longer to establish.
Plants are listed by common and scientific names (alphabetized by scientific name) and are divided into categories such as trees, shrubs, groundcovers and vines. Those marked with **** are considered to be Deer Resistant. Also, trees not so marked are vulnerable until they reach a size sufficient to withstand the rubbing of the buck deer.
COMMON NAME/SCIENTIFIC NAME
Drought Tolerant Trees
Cedar Cedrus spp.
Texas Redbud Cercis canadensis 'Texensis'
Citrus Citrus spp.
Loquat Eriobotrya japonica
Yaupon Holly Ilex vomitoria
Crape myrtle Lagerstroemia indica,
Wax myrtle Myrica cerifera
Japanese black pine Pinus thunbergiana
Shumard oak Quercus shumardii
Live oak Quercus virginiana
Mountain Laurel Sophora secundiflora
Bald Cypress Taxodium distichum
Jujube Ziziphus spp.
Drought Tolerant Shrubs
Glossy abelia Abelia x grandiflora
Century plant **** Agave americana
Aloe Aloe
Japanese barberry Berberis thunbergii
Butterfly bush Buddleia spp.
Cactus **** Some Species Cactaceae family
Bottlebrush Callistemon spp.
Dwarf natal plum **** Carissa grandiflora 'Prostrata'
Pampas grass **** Cortaderia selloana
Cotoneaster Cotoneaster spp.
Pineapple guava Feijoa sellowiana
Fig Ficus carica
Kumquat Fortunella japonica
African daisy Gamolepis chrysanthemoides
St. John's-wort Hypericum spp.
Yaupon, yaupon holly **** Ilex vomitoria
Juniper **** Juniperus spp.
Lantana **** Lantana spp.
English lavender Lavandula angustifolia
Texas sage **** Leucophyllum frutescens
Wax myrtle Myrica cerifera
Oleander **** Nerium oleander
Prickly pear **** Opuntia ficus-indica
Pittosporum Pittosporum spp.
Plumbago **** Plumbago auriculata
Pomegranate **** Punica granatum
Pyracantha Pyracantha spp.
Indian hawthorn Raphiolepis spp.
Rose Rosa spp.
Rosemary **** Rosemarinus officinalis
Texas Mountain Laurel **** Sophora spp.
Spiraea Spiraea spp.
Yellowbells, Gold Star Esperanza
Cup of Gold (Cupea de Oro) Tecoma stans
Blueberry, Sparkleberry Vaccinium spp.
Viburnum **** Viburnum spp.
Chaste tree,
'Texas Lilac' Vitex**** Vitex agnus-castus
Yucca **** Yucca spp.
Drought Tolerant Groundcovers
Bermudagrass **** Cynodon dactylon
Daylily Hemerocallis spp.
St. John's-wort Hypericum spp.
Morning glory Ipomoea spp.
Juniper **** Juniperus spp.
Lantana **** Lantana spp.
Liriope Liriope spp.
Rosemary **** Rosemarinus officinalis
Purple heart Setcreasea pallida
Cape honeysuckle Tecomaria capensis
Asiatic jasmine Trachelospermum asiaticum
Society garlic **** Tulbaghia violacea
Zoysiagrass **** Zoysia spp.
Drought Tolerant Vines
Crossvine Bignonia capreolata
Bougainvillea Bougainvillea spp.
Trumpet creeper Campsis spp.
Creeping fig **** Ficus pumila
Carolina yellow jasmine**** Gelsemium sempervirens
Morning Glory Ipomoea spp.
Honeysuckle Lonicera sempervirens
Virginia creeper Parthenocissus quinquefolia
Cape honeysuckle Tecomaria capensis
Confederate jasmine Trachelospermum jasminoides
Grape Vitis spp.
Remember, Learn and Have Fun!
David Rodriguez is the County Extension Agent-Horticulture for Bexar County. He represents Texas Cooperative Extension with the Texas A&M University System For any landscape or gardening information, call the Bexar County Master Gardeners AHotline@ at (210) 467-6575, email questions to mg-bexar@tamu.edu, or visit our County Extension website at http:bexar-tx.tamu.edu
By: David Rodriguez
In nature, water is usually the most limiting factor for plant growth. This is also the case in home or commercial landscapes. If plants do not receive adequate rainfall or irrigation, the resulting drought stress can reduce growth more than all other environmental stresses combined.
Drought can be defined as the absence of rainfall or supplemental irrigation for a period of time sufficient to deplete soil moisture and injure plants. Drought stress results when water loss from the plant exceeds the ability of the plant's roots to absorb water and when the plant's water content is reduced enough to interfere with normal plant processes. In South Texas, plants may frequently encounter drought stress. Rainfall is very seasonal and periodic drought occurs. During drought, local governments may place restrictions on landscape irrigation in order to conserve water, and landscape plants may become subject to drought stress. The use of drought tolerant plants in the landscape can reduce the likelihood of plant injury due to drought stress.
How Does Drought Stress Affect Plants?
A plant responds to a lack of water by halting growth and reducing photosynthesis and other plant processes in order to reduce water use. As water loss progresses, leaves of some species may appear to change color -- usually to blue-green. Foliage begins to wilt and, if the plant is not irrigated, leaves will fall off and the plant will eventually die.
How Long Before Drought Stress Develops?
The time required for drought injury to occur depends on the water-holding capacity of the soil, environmental conditions, stage of plant growth, and plant species. Plants growing in sandy soils with low water-holding capacity are more susceptible to drought stress than plants growing in clay soils. A limited root system will accelerate the rate at which drought stress develops. A root system may be limited by the presence of competing root systems, by site conditions such as compacted soils, or by container size (if growing in a container). A plant with a large mass of leaves in relation to the root system is prone to drought stress because the leaves may lose water faster than the roots can supply it. Newly installed plants and poorly established plants may be especially susceptible to drought stress because of the limited root system or the large mass of stems and leaves in comparison to roots. Always look at a container plants root system before planting. Loosening or cutting the root system at initial planting stage will aide in establishment.
How Does Environment Affect Drought Stress?
Aside from the moisture content of the soil, environmental conditions of high light intensity, high temperature, low relative humidity and high wind speed will significantly increase plant water loss. The prior environment of a plant also can influence the development of drought stress. A plant that has been drought stressed previously and has recovered may become more drought resistant. Also, a plant that was well-watered prior to drought will usually survive drought better than a continuously drought-stressed plant.
What Changes Can Be Made to Reduce Effects of Drought in the Landscape?
The landscape environment can be modified to reduce or prevent drought stress by irrigation, mulching, and providing shade. Reducing the overall water requirements of the landscape is best achieved by initially designing the landscapes for water conservation, including efficient irrigation systems, proper watering and the use of drought tolerant plants where appropriate.
What are the Characteristics of Drought Tolerant Plants?
Some species have an inherent tolerance of drought because they have evolved in arid areas, regions with frequent drought, or regions with soils of low water-holding capacity. Some species have anatomical or physiological characteristics that allow them to withstand drought or to acclimate to drought. All plants have a waxy coating on their leaves called "cuticle," but some species have developed exceptionally thick cuticles that reduce the amount of water lost by evaporation from the leaf surface. Leaf hairs, which reduce air movement at the leaf surface, are another means of reducing evaporation from the leaf. Since the amount of surface area exposed to the atmosphere affects evaporation, leaf size and thickness are other adaptations, with thicker leaves and smaller leaves being more resistant to water loss. Some species have evolved large surface root systems to quickly absorb rainfall, while other species grow deep root systems to tap deep water tables. Some plants avoid drought by dropping their leaves during droughts and quickly regrowing new leaves when environmental conditions improve.
Lists of Drought Tolerant Plants
The plants listed tolerate drought stress better than most landscape plants. Although these plants are considered drought tolerant, new plantings will require regular irrigation for 6 weeks to 6 months or more before they become established well enough to be effectively drought tolerant. Trees larger than two inches caliper will take longer to establish.
Plants are listed by common and scientific names (alphabetized by scientific name) and are divided into categories such as trees, shrubs, groundcovers and vines. Those marked with **** are considered to be Deer Resistant. Also, trees not so marked are vulnerable until they reach a size sufficient to withstand the rubbing of the buck deer.
COMMON NAME/SCIENTIFIC NAME
Drought Tolerant Trees
Cedar Cedrus spp.
Texas Redbud Cercis canadensis 'Texensis'
Citrus Citrus spp.
Loquat Eriobotrya japonica
Yaupon Holly Ilex vomitoria
Crape myrtle Lagerstroemia indica,
Wax myrtle Myrica cerifera
Japanese black pine Pinus thunbergiana
Shumard oak Quercus shumardii
Live oak Quercus virginiana
Mountain Laurel Sophora secundiflora
Bald Cypress Taxodium distichum
Jujube Ziziphus spp.
Drought Tolerant Shrubs
Glossy abelia Abelia x grandiflora
Century plant **** Agave americana
Aloe Aloe
Japanese barberry Berberis thunbergii
Butterfly bush Buddleia spp.
Cactus **** Some Species Cactaceae family
Bottlebrush Callistemon spp.
Dwarf natal plum **** Carissa grandiflora 'Prostrata'
Pampas grass **** Cortaderia selloana
Cotoneaster Cotoneaster spp.
Pineapple guava Feijoa sellowiana
Fig Ficus carica
Kumquat Fortunella japonica
African daisy Gamolepis chrysanthemoides
St. John's-wort Hypericum spp.
Yaupon, yaupon holly **** Ilex vomitoria
Juniper **** Juniperus spp.
Lantana **** Lantana spp.
English lavender Lavandula angustifolia
Texas sage **** Leucophyllum frutescens
Wax myrtle Myrica cerifera
Oleander **** Nerium oleander
Prickly pear **** Opuntia ficus-indica
Pittosporum Pittosporum spp.
Plumbago **** Plumbago auriculata
Pomegranate **** Punica granatum
Pyracantha Pyracantha spp.
Indian hawthorn Raphiolepis spp.
Rose Rosa spp.
Rosemary **** Rosemarinus officinalis
Texas Mountain Laurel **** Sophora spp.
Spiraea Spiraea spp.
Yellowbells, Gold Star Esperanza
Cup of Gold (Cupea de Oro) Tecoma stans
Blueberry, Sparkleberry Vaccinium spp.
Viburnum **** Viburnum spp.
Chaste tree,
'Texas Lilac' Vitex**** Vitex agnus-castus
Yucca **** Yucca spp.
Drought Tolerant Groundcovers
Bermudagrass **** Cynodon dactylon
Daylily Hemerocallis spp.
St. John's-wort Hypericum spp.
Morning glory Ipomoea spp.
Juniper **** Juniperus spp.
Lantana **** Lantana spp.
Liriope Liriope spp.
Rosemary **** Rosemarinus officinalis
Purple heart Setcreasea pallida
Cape honeysuckle Tecomaria capensis
Asiatic jasmine Trachelospermum asiaticum
Society garlic **** Tulbaghia violacea
Zoysiagrass **** Zoysia spp.
Drought Tolerant Vines
Crossvine Bignonia capreolata
Bougainvillea Bougainvillea spp.
Trumpet creeper Campsis spp.
Creeping fig **** Ficus pumila
Carolina yellow jasmine**** Gelsemium sempervirens
Morning Glory Ipomoea spp.
Honeysuckle Lonicera sempervirens
Virginia creeper Parthenocissus quinquefolia
Cape honeysuckle Tecomaria capensis
Confederate jasmine Trachelospermum jasminoides
Grape Vitis spp.
Remember, Learn and Have Fun!
David Rodriguez is the County Extension Agent-Horticulture for Bexar County. He represents Texas Cooperative Extension with the Texas A&M University System For any landscape or gardening information, call the Bexar County Master Gardeners AHotline@ at (210) 467-6575, email questions to mg-bexar@tamu.edu, or visit our County Extension website at http:bexar-tx.tamu.edu
Wednesday, June 22, 2011
Crepe Myrtle Tips
The crepe myrtles are among the most satisfactory of plants for the South: showy summer flowers, attractive bark, and (in many cases) brilliant fall color make them year-round garden performers. Long, cool autumns yield the best leaf display; sudden frosts following warm, humid fall weather often freeze leaves while they're still green, ruining the show.
Most crepe myrtles in gardens are selections of L. indica or hybrids of that species with L. fauriei. The latter species has attracted much notice for its hardiness and exceptionally showy bark. Queen's crepe myrtle, L. speciosa, grows only in the Tropical South.
All crepe myrtles bloom on new wood and should be pruned in winter or early spring. On large shrubs and trees, remove basal suckers, twiggy growth, crossing branches, and branches growing toward the center of the plant. Also gradually remove side branches up to a height of 4-5 ft.; this exposes the handsome bark of the trunks. During the growing season, clip off spent flowers to promote a second, lighter bloom. Also prune dwarf forms periodically throughout the growing season, removing spent blossoms and thinning out small, twiggy growth.
Crepe myrtles are not usually browsed by deer.
Types of Crepe Myrtle Trees
Japanese Crepe Myrtle. L. fauriei. Native to Japan. Tree to 20-30 ft. tall and wide, with erect habit and outward-arching branches. Light green leaves to 4 in. long and 2 in. wide turn yellow in fall. Especially handsome bark: the smooth gray outer bark flakes away to reveal glossy cinnamon brown bark beneath. Small white flowers are borne in 2- to
4-in.-long clusters in early summer; often blooms again in late summer. Resistant to mildew and best known as a parent of hardy, mildew-resistant hybrids with L. indica, though it is handsome in its own right. 'Fantasy', with even showier bark than the species, has a vase form narrow below, spreading above. 'Kiowa' has outstanding cinnamon-colored bark.
Crepe Myrtle. L. indica. The premier summer-flowering tree of the South. Tolerates heat, humidity, drought; does well in most soils as long as they are well drained. May be frozen to the ground in severe winters in the Upper South, but will resprout. Gardeners there should plant cold-hardy selections such as 'Acoma', 'Centennial Spirit', and 'Hopi'. Variable in size (some forms are dwarf shrubs, others large shrubs or small trees) and habit (spreading or upright). Dark green leaves are 1-2 1/2 in. long and somewhat narrower, usually tinted red when new; they often turn brilliant orange or red in fall. Crinkled, crepe-papery, 1- to 1 1/2-in.-wide flowers in white or shades of pink, red, or purple are carried in dense clusters.
Trained as a tree, it develops an attractive trunk and branch pattern. Smooth gray or light brown bark peels off to reveal smooth, pinkish inner bark; winter trunk and branches seem polished.
Mildew can be a problem. Spray with triforine (Funginex) before plants bloom, or grow mildew-resistant hybrids of L. indica and L. fauriei. Almost all selections with names of Native American tribes, such as 'Hopi', 'Miami', and 'Zuni', are mildew resistant.
Queen's Crepe Myrtle. L. speciosa. Zones TS; 12-9. Tree to 25-30 ft. tall, 15-25 ft. wide. The showiest and most tender of the crepe myrtles, displaying huge clusters of white, pink, lavender, or purple flowers in June and July. Individual blossoms reach 3 in. across. Large leaves (8-12 in. long, 4 in. wide) turn red in fall. Smooth, mottled, exfoliating bark. Rank grower; annual pruning in winter is especially important to control size and form.
Crepe Myrtle Pruning Tips
Don't chop your large crepe myrtles down to ugly stubs each spring just because your neighbors do. This ruins the natural form and encourages the growth of spindly, whiplike branches that are too weak to hold up the flowers. To reduce a crepe myrtle's height, use hand pruners or loppers to shorten the topmost branches by 2-3 ft. in late winter, always cutting back to a side branch or bud. For branches more than 2 in. thick, always cut back to the crotch or trunk. Don't leave big, ugly stubs.
Thanks to Houston Plants & Garden World for the info! www.houstonplantsandgardenworld.com
Most crepe myrtles in gardens are selections of L. indica or hybrids of that species with L. fauriei. The latter species has attracted much notice for its hardiness and exceptionally showy bark. Queen's crepe myrtle, L. speciosa, grows only in the Tropical South.
All crepe myrtles bloom on new wood and should be pruned in winter or early spring. On large shrubs and trees, remove basal suckers, twiggy growth, crossing branches, and branches growing toward the center of the plant. Also gradually remove side branches up to a height of 4-5 ft.; this exposes the handsome bark of the trunks. During the growing season, clip off spent flowers to promote a second, lighter bloom. Also prune dwarf forms periodically throughout the growing season, removing spent blossoms and thinning out small, twiggy growth.
Crepe myrtles are not usually browsed by deer.
Types of Crepe Myrtle Trees
Japanese Crepe Myrtle. L. fauriei. Native to Japan. Tree to 20-30 ft. tall and wide, with erect habit and outward-arching branches. Light green leaves to 4 in. long and 2 in. wide turn yellow in fall. Especially handsome bark: the smooth gray outer bark flakes away to reveal glossy cinnamon brown bark beneath. Small white flowers are borne in 2- to
4-in.-long clusters in early summer; often blooms again in late summer. Resistant to mildew and best known as a parent of hardy, mildew-resistant hybrids with L. indica, though it is handsome in its own right. 'Fantasy', with even showier bark than the species, has a vase form narrow below, spreading above. 'Kiowa' has outstanding cinnamon-colored bark.
Crepe Myrtle. L. indica. The premier summer-flowering tree of the South. Tolerates heat, humidity, drought; does well in most soils as long as they are well drained. May be frozen to the ground in severe winters in the Upper South, but will resprout. Gardeners there should plant cold-hardy selections such as 'Acoma', 'Centennial Spirit', and 'Hopi'. Variable in size (some forms are dwarf shrubs, others large shrubs or small trees) and habit (spreading or upright). Dark green leaves are 1-2 1/2 in. long and somewhat narrower, usually tinted red when new; they often turn brilliant orange or red in fall. Crinkled, crepe-papery, 1- to 1 1/2-in.-wide flowers in white or shades of pink, red, or purple are carried in dense clusters.
Trained as a tree, it develops an attractive trunk and branch pattern. Smooth gray or light brown bark peels off to reveal smooth, pinkish inner bark; winter trunk and branches seem polished.
Mildew can be a problem. Spray with triforine (Funginex) before plants bloom, or grow mildew-resistant hybrids of L. indica and L. fauriei. Almost all selections with names of Native American tribes, such as 'Hopi', 'Miami', and 'Zuni', are mildew resistant.
Queen's Crepe Myrtle. L. speciosa. Zones TS; 12-9. Tree to 25-30 ft. tall, 15-25 ft. wide. The showiest and most tender of the crepe myrtles, displaying huge clusters of white, pink, lavender, or purple flowers in June and July. Individual blossoms reach 3 in. across. Large leaves (8-12 in. long, 4 in. wide) turn red in fall. Smooth, mottled, exfoliating bark. Rank grower; annual pruning in winter is especially important to control size and form.
Crepe Myrtle Pruning Tips
Don't chop your large crepe myrtles down to ugly stubs each spring just because your neighbors do. This ruins the natural form and encourages the growth of spindly, whiplike branches that are too weak to hold up the flowers. To reduce a crepe myrtle's height, use hand pruners or loppers to shorten the topmost branches by 2-3 ft. in late winter, always cutting back to a side branch or bud. For branches more than 2 in. thick, always cut back to the crotch or trunk. Don't leave big, ugly stubs.
Thanks to Houston Plants & Garden World for the info! www.houstonplantsandgardenworld.com
Thursday, June 9, 2011
Butterfly Garden Pathway Bricks have been installed!
Our Community Butterfly garden is looking awesome with the addition of the new pathway bricks! The bricks were recently installed, and set in concrete to ensure their placement. If you purchased a brick, (THANK YOU!!), go by the garden and see your brick! If you were unable to order this time, go check out the garden and see what the bricks look like -- start thinking of what you want your legacy to be. The Garden Club will begin taking orders again in the Fall. Watch the blog and community website for information.
Saturday, June 4, 2011
Yard Tour
The CCLGC 2nd Yard Tour was held on May 21st. The tour started at the community butterfly garden and moved thru the yards of Sandra and Kenneth Gilbert and Marcia and Dave Mausolf. Lunch was at Black Horse Country Club. Thanks to Cathy Oland for once again organizing this event, and thanks to those who allowed us to visit their yards!
Saturday, May 14, 2011
May 2011 Yard of the Month
Congratulations to Chris and Toni Yargo - our May 2011 Yard of the Month winners! They live at 12111 Cypress Creek Lakes Dr. You have a wonderful yard -- thanks for your hard work!
May 2011 Meeting
The final meeting of the 2010-2011 Garden Club years was held on May 9th. Bonnie and Richard Segura were very gracious in allowing an impromptu tour of their beautiful rose gardens before our meeting began. Thank you so much!!
This meeting was "bitter sweet" for Debbie and I. We are turning over the lead of the club to our newly elected President Sandra Gilbert and Secretary/Treasurer Marcia Mausolf. Debbie and I have had a wonderful two years, have enjoyed watching the club grow, and making many new friends along the way. We are looking forward to the new direction that Sandra and Marcia will lead us in.
Sandra gave us an outlook for the next 2 years, and introduced a few of the leads for our committees:
Programs: Kathy Booth
Yard of the Month: Mike Owens and Bonnie Segura
Tours: Cathy Oland
Social Media: Patti Foucha
Friday, May 6, 2011
Final Meeting of the 2010-2011 Garden Club Year
Our final meeting of the 2010-2011 Garden Club year will be this Monday, May 9th. At this meeting we will review our final projects for the year and install our new officers for the term of 2011-2013. The meeting will be held at 26310 Ridgefield Park Ln, We look forward to seeing you there!
Thursday, April 21, 2011
Easter Egg Hunt
A special thanks to Helen Lombardo, Sandra Gilbert and Bonnie Segura for setting up a table, handling the raffle and getting new interest generated in our club. The winners were of the raffle were CCL residents:Sherry Freeman and VickiBurgess.
Tuesday, April 19, 2011
Butterfly Garden has been replanted!
As many of you know, the 2 freezes we had this winter knocked out the butterfly garden -- some of the plants did come back, but others didn't make it. The garden was replenished this past Wednesday, April 13.
Special thanks to Helen Lombardo for all of her efforts in the selection and placement of plants, and organizing the planting itself. You are very much appreciated Helen!! Also big thanks to all of the garden club members who came out to help plant -- we couldn't do it without you!! The area closest to the center will be completed after our bricks are installed in a few weeks. Watch the blog for more information on when they will be installed.
Friday, April 15, 2011
April 2011 Yard of the Month
Congratulations to Johnny and Brenda Rodriguez on being selected as the April 2011 Yard of the Month. The Rogriguez's live at 26343 Morning Cypress Ln. Your yard is great, and we appreciate the effort you put into keeping it up!
What's your favorite plant?
Our April meeting was held on April 11th and our speakers were our very own members. We each spoke about our favorite plants and brought the plant, a piece of the plant or a picture. We shared ideas on where the plant grows best, and why we liked that particular plant. Some of the plants shared were Bird of Paradise, "five finger" fern, Hot Lips Salvia, and Gardenias.
Friday, April 8, 2011
April General Meeting
Our April general meeting will be held this Monday, April 11th at 26907 Canyon Walk Ln. This month our own members are the speakers. Each member will talk about their favorite plant and will bring either a picture or the actual plant for everyone to see. It's a great learning session to help diversify our knowledge and yards. We look forward to seeing you Monday!!
Wednesday, April 6, 2011
Have Ants??
Organic way of getting rid of ants: try putting grits on the mound without disturbing the ants. They will eat the grits which will expand causing them to die. This process does take several days to work. Fire ants have several entrances to their mound, so be sure to cover the entire mound!
Wednesday, March 23, 2011
March 2011 Yard of the Month
Congratulations to Miles and Pam Gilbert on being selected as the March 2011 Yard of the Month. The Gilberts live 11410 Cypress Creek Lakes Dr. 
They have an awesome yard -- drive by and check it out! Thanks for keeping our community beautiful!
They have an awesome yard -- drive by and check it out! Thanks for keeping our community beautiful!
Thursday, March 17, 2011
March 2011 Meeting
Our March general meeting was this past Monday. Thanks to Billie Fontana, Harris County Master Gardner, for the very interesting presentation on Hummingbirds! Did you know that most hummingbirds measure 7.5-13cm (3-5")? The smallest hummingbird is the bee Hummingbird at 5cm. Depending on the species of hummingbird, they flap their wings an average of 12-90 times PER SECOND, and they can fly backwards!!! The average life span is 3-5 years. 
Do you have a hummingbird feeder? The common mixture is 1 cup white granulated sugar to 4 cups water. Boil the water, add the sugar and stir to dissolve. Enjoy the hummingbirds in your yards!!
Do you have a hummingbird feeder? The common mixture is 1 cup white granulated sugar to 4 cups water. Boil the water, add the sugar and stir to dissolve. Enjoy the hummingbirds in your yards!!
Tuesday, March 15, 2011
THANK YOU!
THANKS to all of our friends and neighbors who purchased pathway bricks. The response was huge! Debbie and I also want to thank all of the members who helped by passing out flyers and talking to their neighbors about the Club and the bricks. Watch the blog for further information on when the bricks will be installed.
Friday, March 11, 2011
March 2011 General Meeting
Our March general meeting will be held this Monday, March 14. Billie Fontana, Harris County Master Gardener, will be speaking about hummingbirds and plants that will attract them. The meeting will be held at 26615 Ridgefield Park Ln. We look forward to seeing you there!
Wednesday, March 2, 2011
2011-2013 Officers Elected
Congratulations to Sandra Gilbert, President-Elect and Marcia Mausolf, Secretary/Treasurer Elect for the Garden Club years 2011 thru 2013. We are looking forward to your leadership and the upcoming years of the CCLGC!
Friday, February 25, 2011
It's time to Prune!
Fruit Trees
This is a good time to prune, as long as it is not done right before a heavy freeze. Best time to prune apples.
Peach and nectarine trees can be pruned heavily, removing half of last year's growth to produce new shoots for next year's crop.
Trees and Shrubs
Most ornamental trees can be pruned in late February, except maple, birch and walnut.
Prune summer flowering trees and shrubs now. Select relatively warm days in late February or early March where the weather is predicted to not be very cold for a few days.
Enjoy this time to observe and view the bare look of your garden for ideas as what to add or eliminate. Start exercising--you know those backs and knees will be getting a work out in the next few months. Relax and enjoy the peacefulness and quiet of the winter garden to reflect on the season to come
Thanks Houston Plant and Garden World for the info!!
This is a good time to prune, as long as it is not done right before a heavy freeze. Best time to prune apples.
Peach and nectarine trees can be pruned heavily, removing half of last year's growth to produce new shoots for next year's crop.
Trees and Shrubs
Most ornamental trees can be pruned in late February, except maple, birch and walnut.
Prune summer flowering trees and shrubs now. Select relatively warm days in late February or early March where the weather is predicted to not be very cold for a few days.
Enjoy this time to observe and view the bare look of your garden for ideas as what to add or eliminate. Start exercising--you know those backs and knees will be getting a work out in the next few months. Relax and enjoy the peacefulness and quiet of the winter garden to reflect on the season to come
Thanks Houston Plant and Garden World for the info!!
February 2010 Yard of the Month
Congratulations to Doug and Susan Portman for being selected as the February, 2010 Yard of the Month! The Portman's live at 26319 Morning Cypress Ln. You have a fabulous yard! Thanks for your hard work!
Sunday, February 20, 2011
February 2011 meeting
Our February meeting was held on Valentines day. Our speaker was Carol Fraser, Harris County Master Gardener. She gave a presentation on Roses -- most appropriate being that it is Valentines day! There are many varities of Roses, including many that are called "cemetery roses" because they can survive with little or no care. They have grown in the older cemeteries for years, and continue to thrive. She also reminded us that it is time to prune your roses. Cut back the thick stems and that will help the bush become fuller. Thanks Carol for the great information!
Friday, February 11, 2011
February General Meeting
Our February General Meeting will be held this Monday, February 14, 2011 at 11418 Coalfield Ln from 7-9pm. Our topic this month is roses. Our speaker is Harris County Master Gardener Carol Fraser. She will present beautiful "earth friendly" rose varieties recommended by Harris County Extension Service and provide a publication about rose culture. We will discuss "cemetery roses" (hint: they are not the ones you may have killed).
Remember Feb 14th is day to prune your roses.
Please bring your brick order forms.
Remember Feb 14th is day to prune your roses.
Please bring your brick order forms.
Saturday, January 15, 2011
Leave your Legacy! Purchase an engraved Pathway Brick!
The CCLGC is working on the next phase of our Community Butterfly Garden. We will be paving the outline of the garden with Engraved Pathway Bricks. You can purchase your brick from any Garden Club Member, contact us at cclgc1@gmail.com and we will e mail you the order form, or get the order form on the community website. The brick can be inscribed with just about anything you want to say! Inscribe your name, use it as a memorial to a loved one, or honor your children or grandchildren with their own brick!
January 2011 Yard of the Month
Congratulations to Paul and Karen Morrisette for being selected as the January 2011 Yard of the Month.
The Morrisette's live at 11014 Jade Stone Creek. Keeping a beautiful yard in the winter months is certainly a challenge! Thanks for your hard work!
January General Meeting
Our January 2011 meeting was held this past Monday. Kyle Franklin, Supervisor for IMS Landscaping was our speaker. IMS Landscaping is the landscapers for our neighborhood. Kyle gave us lots of information on how and why certain flowers and shrubs are chosen for our neighborhood. He also explained to us why it seems that sometimes when the flowers seem to be at their best, they are taken up. Wanna know? Ask a Garden Club member! Thanks Kyle, we appreciate what you do to make our neighborhood appealing to othere!
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